The Farmhouse
Panfilo is a picturesque family-run farmhouse nestled in the rolling hills of the town of Cellino Attanasio in the province of Teramo. More bed-and-breakfast than working agriturismo, Panfilo is a hybrid, though the distinctions are not terribly important. The farmhouse has recently been remodeled and includes elegantly furnished rooms and suites across two buildings; we rented three en-suite guest rooms all located on a single floor in the main farmhouse, and it felt like we had the place to ourselves. The other buildings offer an even more private experience with multi-room suites with cooking options. All visitors have access to an infinity pool, a hot tub under the stars, and a fire pit and barbecue area.

Panfilo owners Annamaria and her husband Lino are lovely and accommodating people who are available when you need them for local recommendations and anything you might need to make your stay more comfortable. Neither speak fluent English, but Annamaria is quick to grab her phone and use Google Translate to overcome any language obstacles. (As always, I urge you try to speak a little Italian and everything will be fine. You’re in their country after all; and Italian is not difficult if you know even some Spanish or other Romance language.) Annamaria, Lino and their staff are all charming and make you feel instantly welcomed. No request is too small. You will also be hosted by their adorable farm dog, Armandino, who is always eager to visit.

Location
Rugged and remote yet still charming and accessible, Panfilo provides a jumping off point for you to experience the charms of Abruzzo. Positioned about 30–40 minutes from nearby Adriatic beaches and within easy reach of medieval hill towns, national parks, and vineyards, it’s ideal for travelers seeking a relaxing base for exploring Abruzzo’s natural beauty, culture, and cuisine. Panfilo is located in a picturesque valley surrounded by rolling hills that stretch to the horizon. Put on some hiking shoes and climb up those hills for views of both the Adriatic 17km to the east as well as the distant Gran Sasso d’Italia mountains to the west.

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Food
For me, the star of the staying at Panfilo — even with all its natural beauty and lovely accommodations — was the fresh hand-made breakfasts created every morning by Annamaria and her staff. I call them “staff” but I’m sure they are family or friends because they chat and laugh like schoolgirls as they work their magic. Each day brings endless portions made from farm-fresh & locally-sourced produce, cheeses, breads, jams, and seasonal specialties. In particular, the homemade yogurt was a joy. I found myself eagerly waiting for Annamaria and her crew to open the doors each day — promptly at 8am! The light-splashed, airy views from the restored barn provide wonderful views across the valley as you sit down for an unforgettable meal.

The local restaurants carry forward the rustic feel of Abruzzese cuisine. This is not “sophisticated” Tuscany, but just as rewarding. At one local restaurant, we tried the Abruzzese speciality called arrostocini. They are typically made from mutton or lamb cut in chunks and pierced by a skewer then grilled simply over hot charcoal -- it’s important that the meat not touch the flame. Legend has it that the dish was originated by local shepherds who were being frugal to use meat from sheep that were no longer productive. We visited a local restaurant called Sott’a la Cerqua in the tiny nearby town of Manzitti. The arrostocini were served in a bespoke ceramic mug and the flavor of olive oil, rosemary, and roasted lamb was fantastic. I started to eat the meat by pulling it off the skewers — which seemed logical — only to be gently corrected by a local at the next table who told me that the correct way to eat them was straight off the skewer! I began to feel more like an Abruzzese shepherd almost immediately!

Region
Part of why I think visitors will love Panfilo is the chance to explore Abruzzo and find places like Sott’a la Cerqua. Whether you want to hike in the mountains, a day at the beach, or the chance to visit its historic villages, Abruzzo has something for you. We ended up driving to nearby Sulmona, famous both as the birthplace of Roman poet Ovid and as the capital of sugar-coated almonds known in Italy as confetti. (If you have ever been to a traditional Italian wedding, in the U.S. at least, small lace bags of confetti are on every plate.) Considered one of the most beautiful towns in Abruzzo, Sulmona is nestled adjacent to the dramatic Montagne del Morrone whose 6,800 ft peaks dominate the area.

In Sulmona, we walked into the Saturday open air market common across the villages and cities of Italy. These markets feature merchants offering everything from local food & specialties to clothing and housewares. These markets remain a vital part of local life in these towns. Visting them is a chance to experience a ritual in local Italian life and grab some amazing food. I found a local butcher selling head cheese — more commonly known as “coppa” in Italy — made from pork cheek and other head meats. I know … it’s hardly the “boar’s head” you’re used to, but try it and you will be surprised. Beyond Sulmona, other towns to visit nearby to Panfilo are the ancient Roman town of Atri, the fortress town of Civitella del Tronto, and the artistic ceramic center of Castelli.

Travel tip: I always find that the local governments in Italy produce excellent websites highlighting the tourism of their particular regions. Check out the site for Abruzzo.

For me, the hospitality of Annamaria, Lino and their staff at Farmhouse Panfilo were the best introduction to Abruzzo that I could have hoped for … and I cannot wait to return. Abruzzo’s abundance of food, culture, and nature are perfectly reflected at Panfilo. But more than that, my visit brought a genuine sense of tranquility and benessere (“well being”) that reminds us why it’s so good to avoid the beaten track. Particularly in Italy.

Send me a postcard … and buon viaggio!

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So when an old friend recently asked me to recommend some farmstays and hotels in and around the Venice area, I thought it might be an opportunity to pass them on to FTI readers. I adore Venice and have been many times, but I am never a fan of her almost constant crowds. What’s more, those crowds can make getting any type of authentic experience almost impossible. But these nearby agriturismos offer a chance to see the area beyond the lagoon while being close enough to make day trips into the city easy. The hotels I found are selected as a hedge against the crowds. They look to me to offer a chance to see Venice more like a local than a tourist. So if you like my reviews and my approach, here are a few recommendations for Venice and the Veneto region. If you’d like more, please reach out and let’s see how I can be of assistance.

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AGRITURISMOS

Ca’Orologio

Email: agriturismo@caorologio.com
Address:   Via Ca’Orologio 7a Baone, Veneto 35030 (near Padua)
Website | Google Maps

An elegant-looking wine resort in Baone (Veneto wine country) close to Venice with a harmonious courtyard and a variety of room options including traditional camere (rooms) as well as larger apartments. Breakfast is included, but there’s not a restaurant on-site. But that just provides the opportunity to explore nearby Padua (35km), Vicenza (50km), or Ferrara (60km) for more northern Italian cuisine and culture.

I love the vibe nestled among the wine-growing hills of southern Veneto. The proximity to Venice means that you can use it as an escape from the crowds there or as a countryside base to explore Veneto and take a day trip or two to La Serenissima -- which is often enough for most people.

Col delle Rane

Email: info@coldellerane.it
Address: Via Mercato Vecchio, 18, 31031 Caerano di San Marco (near Treviso)
Website | Google Maps

Another welcoming spot not far from Venice that caught my eye is Col delle Rane. Whereas Ca’Orologio is located to the West of Venice, Col dell Rane is more north in the area that includes Treviso (with its canals), Bassano del Grappa (natural beauty and a gateway to its renowned grappa and to the Prosecco wine region), and Marostica (home of the famous cherry festival.)

Col delle Ranne offers a variety of accommodations including doubles, twins, and family sized rooms; they also offer full apartments with refrigerators and even a camping area with electrical hook-ups, bathrooms, showers, & laundry facilities. Enjoy daily breakfast featuring farm-sourced and local products.

HOTELS

Normally, I tend towards AirBNBs when I’m staying in a city because they’re much more economical and enable you to pick a neighborhood and experience the area more like a local. But sometimes, hotels are a better choice … or simply a nice splurge. In Venice, these hotels caught my eye and I’d happily try any of them:

Hotel Huereka (Cannaregio)

Email: post@hotel-heureka.com
Address: Fondamenta Gasparo Contarini, 3534, 30121 Venezia VE
Website | Google Maps

Lovely location in Cannaregio -- the historic Jewish ghetto sestieri (neighborhood) in Venice -- that includes a beautiful enclosed garden and artfully designed & decorated rooms … all charmingly Venetian. Nearby is the Gothic, 16th century home of Tintoretto, the master Renaissance painter of the Venetian style. Nicknamed Il Furioso for his dynamic and rapid painting style, Tintoretto’s works can be seen across the city. His tomb is located in the Chiesa della Madonna dell’Orto which is also close to the Hotel Huereka.

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Hotel NH Collection Venezia Murano Villa (Murano)

Email: nhcollectionmuranovilla@nh-hotels.com
Address: Fondamenta Andrea Navagero, 29, 30141 Venezia VE
Website | Google Maps

Murano is far from tourist-free, but the Venezia Murano Villa looks like a winner to me; convenient to the Venice airport but tucked away from the main tourist canal in Murano, it looks like the best of both convenience and location. A 15 minute vaporetto ride will bring you back to the heart of the sights at San Marco & the Grand Canal.

Maison Boutique Al Redentore (Guidecca)

Email: info@alredentore.it
Address: Calle Cape, 866/T, 30133 Venezia VE
Website | Google Maps

A final hotel that I would definitely investigate in the Guidecca neighborhood is Maison Boutique Al Redentore. The hotel is located next to the Chiesa del Santissimo Redentore (cathedral and adjacent convent) with its lovely and serene garden. Giudecca is on the far south side of the Venetian archipelago. Just remote enough from the tourist core to experience a bit of serenity, it’s a great area to walk and is still conveniently 2 stops from San Marco square.

BONUS

Ristorante La Bitta

Phone: +39 041 523 0531
Address: C. Lunga S. Barnaba, 2753/A, 30123 Venezia VE
Google Maps

If you’re in Venice and would like a restaurant recommendation, try La Bitta. (Say ‘hi’ to Debora who, I believe, still runs the restaurant.) I met her many years ago on a fateful evening. We had a lovely meal and for dessert, her signature panna cotta. (Debora even generously shared her recipe with my sister.) The restuarant is located in the Dorsoduro neighborhood across the Grand Canal from San Marco. If you’re on the San Marco side, take a traghetto (a gondola ferry) to cross the canal. The most convenient one is located here; or simply get off at the Ca’Rezzonico vaporetto stop. The hours at La Bitta can be unpredictable, so check ahead of time and do call for a reservation. They do two seatings (one early around 7pm; one late around 9pm.) They feature a rare meat-oriented menu in a city where most restaurants naturally focus on fish.

THE FARM

With that in mind, let’s consider an amazing slice of rural Italian life nestled in the central Tuscan hills near San Casciano called Corzano e Paterno. Here, you can certainly have access to otherworldly views and a lovely glass of wine, but if you’d like to experience life on a working and vibrant farm, Corzano e Paterno is for you. Nestled in the rolling countryside, just 45 minutes from Florence, sits a piece of unique Tuscan history; where over a millennium of history & culture intersect. The route to the farm includes the ancient Via Cassia -- a road that runs from Rome to Siena to Florence is adjacent to Corzano. That same road that has carried ancient Etruscans, Roman legionaries, Lombards, Goths, and ever-feuding medieval Tuscan nobles and peasants today still delivers you to this amazing place.

The heart of Corzano e Paterno is the food it creates: its wines, olive oils, and cheese. Let’s quickly talk about each:

• Grapes
  The vineyards that are used to produce their wines are on the hills carved by the Pesa River and produce typical regional varietals including Sangiovese, Canaiolo, Malvasia, and Trebbiano. To those local grapes, they have added Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Chardonnay. The farm normally produces a white wine, a rosé, four reds and a sweet wine.

• Olives
  The farm includes 4000 trees producing olives of the classic Tuscan varieties, Frantoio and Leccino; but they also have trees producing Moraiolo & Pendolino olives. They are pressed at a nearby frontoio and bottled for sale. Tuscan oils are characterized by their buttery and peppery taste.

• Cheese
  For me, however, the signature of the farm are the Sardi sheep (named because of their Sardinian heritage) whose milk produces an amazing variety of cheeses. But more than just the cheese, the sheep feed the ecosystem of the farm by supplying the olive orchards and vineyards with manure as fertilizer. I love to visit the sheep in their stable and in the surrounding hillsides. Both inherently curious and naturally skittish, the sheep are guarded over by a unique breed of dog -- the Maremmano-Abruzzese sheepdog.

I got to know several of these noble beasts on my most recent trip to the farm, and their vigilance and dedication to their flock is a testament to their breed. As for the sheep, it was lambing season when we were there and got to meet some of the newest members of the flock! If you’re lucky, ask the staff and try to schedule a quick tour and introduction to the sheep and dogs.

As for the milk and resulting cheese, Chef Susan Grant, about whom I wrote about in an earlier post describing the restoration of nearby La Petraia, was the first person to tell me about Corzano as the producer of “the best pecorino cheese in all of Tuscany.” In addition to the pecorino, Corzano produces 15 other types of cheeses; their herbed cheeses, in particular, are my favorites.

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HISTORY

If the food is its heart, the history of Corzano e Paterno reveals its soul. That history of the farm is fascinating and inspiring and I urge you to read the detailed account written by the family and published on their website. But, I will try to summarize it here to entice you to read more. It begins with the purchase of the farm and its rocky land that hardened Tuscan locals call la terra ingrata (“the ungrateful earth”) to an unlikely buyer.

Fate brought Wendel Gelpke to Corzano. A Swiss anthropologist turned architect who had moved to Florence, Wendel purchased the in the early 1970s when the family who owned it was forced to sell in order to satisfy the dowry of its daughters. The wild and untamed property near San Casciano was primitive: buildings with no water, electricity, or heating. The farm itself was overgrown and largely untended and was utilizing laborious and outdated methods. But Wendel could see the potential of the land. He began planting vineyards and olive trees. The overgrown land was trimmed back by the introduction of Sardinian sheep, who would feed the cheese manufacturing that was added to the farm’s production. (As I wrote about when describing the history of the nearby Spannochia, the farm at Corzano was the product of the feudal mezzadria share-cropping system.)

Through dedication and difficult work, the growing Gelpke family slowly brought the farm back to life. During this period when Wendel purchased the farm, the Italian population was shifting to the cities and away from the rural farms. That demographic shift presented opportunities and in 1975, Wendel was able to purchase the adjacent Fattoria di Paterno from the historic Machiavelli family and the basis of the combined farm that exists today was formed.

Over the past 50 years since he purchased Corzano, Wendel’s family has grown and with it the output and success of the farm. Slowly but surely, they modernized the processes, added to the vineyards and olive groves, and built out facilities to support their growing activities. Among many changes, formal stables were built to house the sheep; an underground wine cellar was added in 2001; a caseificio (cheese making facility) took over from the old wine cellar; and the housing facilities were developed to make it possible for guests to experience the farm and its history.

EXPERIENCE

Let’s be clear about something: at Corzano, you’re visiting their farm much more than they are hosting you and catering to your every whim. There’s no hotel breakfast room every morning with waiting coffee and a waiter to take your order. But rest assured, the staff will take very good care of you and are welcoming and generous. This is your chance to live for a short time on a working farm in an historic location whose legacy is visible everywhere around you. This is visible through the renovated buildings that serve as guest houses now. There are wonderful lodging options across several buildings spread out across the expansive properties of Corzano e Paterno. In Fallochio, you can rent one (or more of) individual bedrooms and share a communal kitchen. In Corzanello, you can rent a six bedroom medieval farmhouse that has been fully restored and expanded. Gina is a large apartment in one of the oldest buildings on the property and includes access to Corzano’s pool. Erta is for the more adventurous. (I stayed here.) Located off a rugged, dirt road on the hills between the Corzano and Paterno, Erta offers six large bedrooms, privacy, and views galore. Each location offers cooking facilities with all you’ll need to prepare something from a morning cup of coffee to a full meal. Clean, expansive, comfortable and complete with all amenities, the guest houses and rooms will enable you to experience life on the farm as well as providing a perfect base from which to explore the surrounding Tuscan countryside and hill towns.

There is an on-site restaurant (called Fienile) that operates from March to mid-October and during that time is open several days a week for dinner; and for larger groups, meals can be made available at any time. For those seeking an authentic, local, Tuscan meal featuring fresh and local ingredients, prepared by skilled chefs, I cannot imagine a better setting.

Individual dinners can also be arranged. On my recent visit, Chef Loredana’s pre-prepared & ready to heat meals were a revelation. We were arriving late in the evening and knew we wouldn’t have a chance to get to a market prior to arriving, so we ordered a meal for three. It was awaiting us when we arrived. Not only was the quality superb and the pairings unique, but the amount of food was so generous, it literally lasted three days. Our menu included a pesto lasagna with béchamel & Parmesan, pork fillet with apples, plums, & onions, a lovely cabbage salad, and beyond-all-expectations yogurt tiramisu!

ACTIVITIES

If you ask, you can schedule a visit to the stables to see the sheep and their watchful companion dogs. You can hike through the ancient hillsides and meander down toward the Pesa River that feeds the farm side. You can take a cooking class with Chef Loredana. Enjoy an afternoon by the pool enjoying a glass of Corzanello (one of the winery’s bright, welcoming red wines.) And, of course, take a tour of the winery and caseificio to see where the magic happens. I’d suggest putting on some good shoes and taking a hike on the strade bianche (“dirt roads”) around the vineyards and oil trees and take in the beauty of the landscape. The combination of natural beauty and the energy of the farm is a timeless combination; other than the occasional buzz of a local Ape (one of the ubiquitous 3-wheeled utility vehicles the local farmers use), you feel that it could be 1525 as easily as 2025.

SUMMARY

For me, Corzano e Paterno is the perfect Italian farmstay. It’s a chance to experience life on a working farm whose products you can enjoy but, beyond that, it’s a glimpse into the family and staff dedicated to making it all work. Every day brings new challenges and opportunities and, as a visitor, you can see the love and passion that makes the place so special. What’s more, the history of the surroundings seem to call out to remind you that the distant past isn’t really so distant at all. The people, the crops, the animals, the land, and the food they produce are no longer abstract things, but a reminder of a constancy over time. That assurance brings with it an overwhelming sense of place and the kind of deeper understanding that we should seek out when traveling.

Traveling by train in Europe is a unique joy for American tourists. Despite the size of America, or perhaps because of its continental reach, train travel in the U.S. is rarely utilized by us. In Europe, with its grand capital cities situated with relatively short distances, train travel has long been an affordable and convenient means of seeing these varied cultures across the continent. How do I put this gently? The reputation of Italian train travel has traditionally lagged behind its larger neighbors in France or Germany. But times have changed, and it’s easier than ever to travel from north-to-south and across Italy in trains that are fast, clean, and enjoy levels of service on par with the rest of the Continent. I certainly wouldn’t say they are 100% on time -- this isn’t Tokyo -- but where’s the fun in that anyway?

Primary Types of Italian Train Travel

• Regional trains run shorter distances and on less frequent timetables than other types of service. They are also generally slower and stop more frequently. But what they lack in efficiency, they make up for with access to more remote cities and towns … which we like! These trains come in all shapes and sizes. There are no reserved seats on these trains and no food options onboard. But you’re welcome to bring your own food or drink. Further, the cars may or may not be air-conditioned and will likely have less storage for luggage.

• InterCity trains connect cities across regions and are faster than the regional trains reaching speeds of up to 160 kilometers per hour (100 mph). They normally have open plan seating with a center aisle and seats on either side. But there are still classic side corridor trains with compartment seating on certain routes. (Think of the Hogwarts Express on the Harry Potter movies!) These can be fun if you’re traveling with a larger group and you can grab a compartment together.

• High-speed (or “Frecce”) trains also connect cities across the country at greater distances (such as Rome to Milan) but they reach speeds of up to 300 kilometers per hour (190 mph.) The most common train is the Frecciarossa (“red arrow”) and, beyond their speed, they feature multiple classes of comfortable service, food coaches onboard, and free WiFi. Less common are the Frecciaregento (“silver arrow) and Frecciabianca (“white arrow”) trains. They travel at slightly slower speeds than the Frecciarossa and operate on particular routes where they can make use of older rail networks. But they offer the same levels of service as the Frecciarossa.

At any large train station, you will see other types of train service but Regional, InterCity and Frecce are the primary movers. I’ll describe some of these others types of services later in this post.

Reservations

Some important details on the process of making train reservations in Italy. Remember that there are reservations and there are seat assignments and they are not the same thing. As we will see, some trains require reservations and others do not. Unless you’re traveling last minute on Regional trains, I would recommend that you make reservations and seat assignments in advance to avoid hassles. Reservations and seat assignments on InterCity and high-speed Frecce trains are REQUIRED. We will discuss important issues related to regional trains tickets below but be aware that they are easy to get and the process is similar to other European countries.

Regional Trains

Regional trains normally do not require reservations but you can still make them in advance using any of the online services (see below) or apps. Buy tickets at the train station on the day of travel using a Trenitalia ticket machine or at the ticket office (look for signs for ‘biglietteria’). The ticket machines are multilingual and easy to navigate. Regardless, these tickets need to be “validated” using one of green machines that you will see when you enter your train’s track/platform (or “binari”.)

Increasingly, these validation kiosks offer contactless payment (using your credit card or phone via Apple Pay or Google Pay) so you can purchase (and validate) your ticket electronically. This has become more common after the COVID pandemic and is increasingly available on popular regional train routes. You tap to board the train and then tap again when you disembark at which point you are charged for the journey. Importantly, using contactless bank cards, you can only purchase for one individual. (Parents traveling with children take note!) In the Resources section below, I will provide a link to regional routes that have the “Tap & Tap” functionality.

If you book in advance online, you will not need to validate any tickets. Bring your phone or the paper receipt you received in email with a scannable code, and you’re good to go. If you purchase tickets in advance, there are rules about making changes to the reservation. Being Italy, it’s a bit complicated so I urge you read the rules carefully when you purchase. But, in general, if you need to cancel regional trains reservations, do so at least the day before. You can change the reservations up until the day of the travel but they are no longer refundable.

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InterCity & High-Speed Trains

InterCity and high-speed “Frecce” trains require advance reservation & purchase. But “advance” can mean months before at home … or an hour before at a kiosk. These trains rarely sell out completely so you can book them at the station on the day of travel. However, the fares will be more expensive that way and you will likely not get to choose your seat. I try to always book a few weeks (at least) in advance and make seat selections. If you are the type of person who likes the have physical copies of things, you can print out the reservations or the email confirmation before you travel. They will contain a QR or scannable code that you can bring onboard the train for the conductor to check. Trenitalia or most other reservation providers will likely have apps for iOS or Android phones that will keep your reservation confirmations. One person can book for others -- but make sure they’re all on the train together and have ID in case it’s necessary.

If you purchase your tickets at a kiosk or at the ticket office on the day of travel for InterCity or high-speed trains, you will not worry about validating them; that is limited to same day Regional tickets.

Fare classes are also worth a mention. The further in advance that you book your fares, the better the prices will be. These are “economy” or “super economy” fares in contrast with “base” rates. There are also other special fares but they often require membership in Trenitalia frequent traveler clubs and may not work for you. Read carefully before booking.

CLASS OF SERVICE

On Regional trains, things are simple. Many of these trains are single class; and, where it’s available, the difference between first-class and second-class carriages is less noticeable.

On InterCity or high-speed “Frecce” trains, second class is perfectly fine for most travelers. If you want to splurge, first class offers a more quiet experience with slightly wider seats; and often the upgrade doesn’t cost much more. Many long distance Frecce trains feature a dedicated food carriage; and some classes feature a glass of prosecco and a snack service during the trip. Bathroom service, in my experience, about the same level of cleanliness as any busy U.S. airline. Serviceable, if not luxurious.

HOW TO BOOK

Booking travel can be done from a variety of online agents but I tend to go directly to Trenitalia.com -- the official site of the Italy’s state-run train system. You can customize your language choice (Italian or English) and see schedules and fares based on time of date and service class. In the resources section below is my list of recommended online booking online sites.

OTHER TRAIN TYPES

In addition there are also other notable types of train service you may notice at train stations in Italy. Here is a non-exhaustive list of some:

• InterEuro: As you might guess, these are trains that connect Italian cities with others across Europe. One thing to note about routes that cross national borders: generally, InterEuro trains are operated by the rail service of the country in which they orginate. So a train from Paris to Torino is a French operated train (that’s usually SNCF.) So booking that train would require you to make a reservation with that entity.

• InterCity Notte: Overnight trains in Europe, like the “Notte” can be a lot of fun and will probably merit their own post. Within Italy, they can save you time while traveling and give you more time to explore the country. Most likely, you’ll take one from another country arriving in Italy. There are many options and types of overnight service so research carefully (until I can write up a post on them!)

• Special Routes: There are several unique, specialty routes that you may come across in your research. A few of these include the Sicily Express: an InterCity train that actually boards a ferry to cross the Strait of Messina. There’s a train that runs Naples to see the historical sites at Herculaneum and Pompeii.

• Italo: Another high-speed option is Italo. Italo is a private company that uses the same high-speed rail system as the Frecciarossa and offers excellent intercity high-speed service within Italy at speeds up to 360 km/hr.) I have taken them and found them to be excellent options. Booking is done easily in advance (online or via their app) and at the station.

LAST MINUTE ADVICE

Train station layout: Train stations in Italy run the gamut in terms of size and shape. But all will have a large information board showing departure and arrival times. Most will have food & shopping options. (In Rome or Milan, there are are like mini shopping malls.) Note that the the location of the tracks (or binari) can sometimes be confusing. At some stations, you may need to take stairs under the tracks to get to a particular platform but they are well marked and it’s not difficult.

Get on the right train!: At the entry point to you train platform, you will see a prominent sign indicating the number of the binari and the unique train number for your journey. Make sure the number matches your reservation. You may be rushing and many of the trains can look alike.

Get on the right carriage!: To avoid getting on the wrong carriage, look on your ticket or reservation. it will indicate the specific carriage that you’re booked on and this is not the same as the class of service. Check before you get on and get settled! In the rush to get onto your train, it’s very easy to get on the wrong carriage. I’ve done it myself and then had to hump heavy bags back out and onto the right one. (On the other hand, it does amuse/annoy the locals.)

Fun fact: On most trains, you can bring your own food (and even your own wine) onboard; it’s allowed!

Beware of pickpockets: It has never happened to me and I don’t think it’s as big a problem as in the past, but train stations in Italy — as anywhere in Europe — are a magnet for pickpockets. Keep valuables in front pockets or in tight fitting backpacks or slings to avoid giving anyone an easy target.

Luggage: On InterCity and high-speed trains, there is ample room for luggage and carry-on bags. Large bags often have areas near the entry to carriage for storage. In addition, these trains also have overhead storage throughout the carriages for smaller bags. Regional trains have much more limited storage areas so plan accordingly.

Train strikes: Train strikes in Italy are an unfortunate occurence which can affect your travel. In my experience, you will likely hear about the possibility of a strike in advance as they tend to make the news in Italy. I have never been directly affected myself, but they’re a possibility worth mentioning.

BOOKING & INFORMATION RESOURCES

• Booking direct with Trenitalia

• Booking Italian train travel via Italiarail

• Booking European train travel via Trainline

• Booking Italo high-speed travel

• Tap-Tap Trenitalia Routes

• Seat61.com: My go-to source for train travel help and tips worldwide, but excellent details on Europe, in particular.

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On that Sunday wandering through the Cannaregio neighborhood, we crossed a canal and saw an amazing mix of different types of rowing boats: gondolas, English style rowing boats, Venetian style rowing boats, kayaks, so-called “dragonboats” (that hold up to 20 rowers sitting 2 across), canoes, and a few others I could not identify. But if you can row it, there’s a good chance you’ll see one in the Vogalonga.

Here are a few clips of the Vogalonga 2017:

My two sons -- then teenagers -- suggested that we needed to enter this race at the earliest possible opportunity. Fast forward to 2025. Those two boys are now men and decided the time was right to rent a two-man kayak for the 2025 Vogalonga. They entered themselves in the race and made their way to Venice. What follows is a quick summary of their experiences:

“Navigating Venice and renting a kayak in Italian was as chaotic as one would expect. Getting to the start line at the beginning of the race was the hardest part of the whole thing. Not surprisingly, the scene at the start of the race was a bit chaotic. Imagine a thousand odd boats off Punta Della Dogana all bumping into each other waiting for the starter’s pistol. Many different types of people enter the race. There were some father/son kayaks, some Indiana Jones-looking British explorer types in a wooden canoe, teams of older women on big row boats, many international rowing clubs rounding out the field. And, of course, many local Italian teams who participate every year. The larger boats often feature a coxswain pounding out a perpetual rhythm on a drum.”

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“There were also boats organized by tour groups with a guide at the front with a megaphone calling out rowing cadence to the rowers. One of these boats with 30 people onboard flipped over shortly after the start ... which may not have been in the brochure but certainly added to the experience.”

The route of the race take the rowers 30 kilometers around the lagoon from the beginning at the Punta Della Salute, proceeding out past the fortifications of the island of Sant'Erasmo, then through the outer islands Burano and Murano before returning to Cannareggio and the finish back on the Grand Canal.

In the spirit of Farm Table Italy, I would be remiss if I didn’t encourage visitors to Venice to venture out to Burano, Lido, as well as the *sestieri* (districts) like Cannaregio (the old Jewish quarter) around the main islands. The tourists hoards typically, and with good reason, focus on St Mark’s, the Piazza San Marco and the Palazzo Ducale but the true charms of Venice are found in its remote corners. The vaporetti (water taxis) are inexpensive, relatively easy to navigate, and provide the best means of getting around the Venetian islands. But even if you just want to stay in the San Marco area, wander off and follow the canals around the city. Remember, it’s an island -- how lost can you get?

Back to the race report from my boys:

“The water on the way out was calm and the boats were bunched up together; but on the way back toward the main islands of Venice, the afternoon winds kicked up and the water became more choppy separating the participants. At Burano and the start/finish, there were race support stations (punti restori) where rowers could grab water and bananas to refuel.”

“There were many locals rowing on gondola style boats using their distinctive rowing motion. The last stretch (through Cannaregio) was probably the prettiest; kayaks could sneak through the narrow bridges fastest so we got the Grand Canal basically to ourselves.”

Watch & see …

La Vogalonga is the type of event which shows that even in its larger cities and tourist hubs, Italy continually offers opportunities to experience her beauty and traditions like a local. Seek them out and be rewarded with great memories … and much better travel.

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A presto …

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CREDITS:
Photos: Jack Gabrieli
Descriptions: Lucas Gabrieli

It’s as good as it looks. Buon appetito!

DINNER

At a recent dinner visit, the combination of biodynamic methods, organic meats and produce married to Susan’s unique culinary training and style were evident. The cause for the celebration was the approval to begin construction on their new cantina for on-site wine, olive oil, and other food production. This was no small accomplishment given the nature of Italian bureaucracy, and in particular, Tuscany’s bulletproof zoning laws. Italian (and, in particular, Tuscan) bureaucracy takes a back seat to no one and the necessary plan approvals took literally years to work their way through. Indeed, the guest list on this particular day was the Radda rank-and-file: the mayor, his wife, and other city officials who had been instrumental in getting the plans passed. No one noticed the American who spoke limited Italian marveling at each course of the meal. But the hosts and guests alike were all gracious and beguiling dinner companions.

Delicious and creative pairings of food, herbs, and wine were the norm at La Petraia. The marriage of Susan’s transalpine techniques with the local flavors of Tuscany produced a dining experience both sophisticated and rustic; urban and rural at the same time. It was an artistic yet wholly authentic farm-to-table experience.

The biodynamic menu that night at La Petraia included these elements:
(Apologies for the poor camera photos of the dishes I tried to capture when no one was looking!)

SORRISO (smile)

The first course at Petraia is called sorriso (or smile). Today, it is “crack”; an aptly named addictive, homemade cracker that features wild fennel seeds harvested on the property. These tasty crackers were matched with a trio of cheeses - crudo / cotto / stagionato - to set up the palate for the courses to come, and paired with a white wine from La Petraia’s vineyards.

FEGATO (liver)

Remember your grandmother’s liver dish? OK, now forget it. The liver at Petraia is a light, airy paté but with a caramelized crust like one would find on a creme brûlée. The earthiness of the liver is softened by the mousse-like consistency and then matched with the sweetened crust to wonderful effect. It’s so light that Susan sometimes spreads the fegato on crackers for a snack. The dish is completed with corniolo (a jelly made from the fruit of a dogwood cherry tree) and hearty grape bread. The plate is accented with a sprinkling of fresh herbs and flowers, including petals from the enormous and fragrant lavender fields that line the entrance to the property.

EGG OF THE DAY

The egg of the day is a tribute to the farm-to-table nature of life at Petraia. Eggs are precious; hens are fed grass and organic grain only. Unlike many industrial eggs, no artificial light or hormones were used to stimulate their ovaries — so they do not produce as many and their arrival is unpredictable. But those they do produce are much better-tasting. The result is that they are highly valued possessions to Susan and are cooked with special attention.

She poached the egg using an immersion circulator; and the precision means the consistency is perfect. The egg sits on polenta, topped with a creamy sage fondue and is completed with a single, delicate sage leaf sitting atop. Here again, the combination of technique and local flavor is worthy of every Michelin star that grace the restaurants where Susan once reigned. Polenta is pure Italian peasant food so the combination of simple and elegant was perfect and matched the entire theme of La Petraia. The fonduta was a rich cheese sauce that is delicate but full of hearty parmigiano flavor. The sage leaf on top served as a reminder that the cream for the sauce was boiled with fresh sage from Petraia’s ample herb gardens.

CECI

Ceci beans (also called ‘chickpeas’; the Spanish call them ‘garbanzo beans’) are a robust legume common throughout the Mediterranean. This presentation here is pure ‘comfort food; bathed in a rich broth and served with a simple grilled Tuscan bread. It was a rustic bridge to the upcoming meat dishes of our meal.

FARAONA (“guinea hen”)

The fowl is raised on the property and it has a long history for Italians. The word ‘faraona’ translates to “Pharoah’s hen” because they were originally thought to have come to Italy from Egypt and were popular among the ancient Roman upper-class in ancient times.

This faraona was prepared utilizing a more modern confit technique: Briefly, confit is the process of slowly cooking meat in its own fat. This method is particularly well suited for free-range meats that may be a bit tougher than non-organically fed animals. Served in a creamy broth, the faraona was rich tasting and farm simple at the same time.

PETRAIA CINTA SENESE

Cinta Senese pigs are a heritage breed that was almost lost to extinction in the 1960s. According to U.N. documents, the entire population was less than 80 as late as 1990, but due to concerted efforts, the breed has made a strong comeback and were raised on the property at La Petraia. (In her cookbook/anthem to the creation of La Petraia entitled Dinamica, Susan and Michael recount the role of the Cinta Senese pig in their conversion from vegetarians to meat-loving Tuscans.)

Susan’s preparation was worthy of the respect she has for the animals. Paired with pancetta, the seared pork was wild and intensely flavored. But for the presentation and setting, it would have been easy to imagine this meal being eaten beside an outdoor fire pit hundreds of years ago when these animals were feral and plentiful. The presentation — the pork flavored with wild fennel (finocchio selvatico), served alongside some refreshing quince (mele cotogne) and sprinkled with fresh granola — brought this traditional dish to a modern table perfectly.

SUMMARY

To my mind, the meal was a triumph of modern and ancient, of urbane and rustic. The knowledge that the meat you are eating is from a breed brought back from the brink of extinction; that the fowl was the same enjoyed by ancient Romans; and that wine you are drinking is prepared using techniques both ancient and modern would make even the most apathetic grocery shopper a locavore for life. The diversity of flavor, consistency, and ingredients combined with the knowledge that you can see the hen that provided the egg, or the pig that has provided the meat, or the sage plant that added its distinctive touch makes the experience so very unique. No distance exists — neither physical nor emotional — between farm, preparation and table. I feel so fortunate to have had the opportunity to experience such a place and I hope it inspires travelers to seek out the many other agriturismos in Italy that strive to provide this level of connection. Bravo!

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PROPERTY & LOCATION

At the end of a windy dirt road, far from the grape-soaked thoroughfares of Radda-in-Chianti, and thrust deep into the dark stands of juniper, black pine and oak that dot this area of Tuscany, sits La Petraia. Reborn from the ruins of a centuries-old farm and with a rustic beauty that makes you feel like you’re truly on a movie set, La Petraia was rebuilt as an Italian sanctuary for the locavore.

The words “La Petraia” literally means “place of stone,” and when former proprietors Susan and Michael Grant acquired the property, that’s largely what it was: a big pile of rocks. Susan and Michael resurrected this property to its former greatness with a focus on timeless techniques and careful attention to biodynamic principles. With a lineage dating back to the 11th century and unoccupied for more than 40 years, the land was overgrown and untended, but it contained a rich history that foreshadowed its potential. Built on a property totaling approximately 55 hectares (135 acres), it includes the ruins of a 2,700-year-old Etruscan settlement and all the agricultural richness that is characteristic of the Chianti hills. In the rebuild, the Grants focused on the harmony between the land and the buildings. Great attention was paid to maintaining the character of the structure itself while bringing modern functionality. But as impressive as the structures are, the heart of Petraia is the land.

The Pesa River begins from springs on La Petraia as it crosses the provinces of Siena and Florence on its way to the larger Arno and then to the Mediterranean. The well-watered land encouraged Susan and Michael to plant a wide variety of vegetables, fruit trees, and grapes using agricultural methods that fell out of vogue in Tuscany long ago and that had the locals scratching their heads. Tuscan farmers traditionally confine their growing to grapes for their famous Chianti wine and olives, so the thought of growing vegetable gardens on Tuscan soil was anathema. In spite of their neighbors’ suggestions to the contrary and in cooperation with an agronomist from the nearby region of Emilia-Romagna, the results have been spectacular.

The summer harvest featured tomatoes, eggplant, and peppers; winter crops include leeks, onions, lettuce, cabbages, broccoli, beets, fennel, celery, carrots, brussels sprouts. The spring brought fava beans, potatoes, peas, and asparagus. On top of that, La Petraia was home to a variety of animals, both raised and wild, including Val d’Arno hens (which produce fantastically flavorful eggs), heritage Cinta Senese pigs, rabbits, geese, guinea hens, turkeys, and ducks.

Their harvest of fruits and nuts were equally impressive and diverse. The grounds produced almonds, hazelnuts, persimmon, apples, pears, quince, apricots, plums, peaches, mulberries (from trees that are centuries old and once housed silkworms), olives, figs, gooseberries, raspberries, black, red and white currants. The pedigree of each was thoroughly vetted by the retained services of a local agricultural historian. The quince, for example, were of the same variety grown by Tuscan aristocracy many centuries ago.

The Chianti region of Tuscany is synonymous with wine, of course, and La Petraia grew the traditional Sangiovese grapes, but in an unconventional method. That is, it was conventional and traditional here before anyone had heard of a wine from Chianti. Since 2012, La Petraia has used the ancient alberate training system, locally called the testucchio method, which uses tree trunks as support for the vines. Less efficient than the bicordon method favored today – which are the two long wires strung with vines that stretch miles along the countryside - the Romans and perhaps the Etruscans just used what they had for support. And centuries-old olive trees were resurrected and new sapling planted to feed the harvest.

ACTIVITIES

When La Petraia was operating, Susan and Michael offered their guests cooking classes and harvesting activities that are truly “farm-to-table”. These activities were based on the then-current fruits, nuts, vegetables, and meats that are fresh and in-season at the farm. These classes and harvesting activities changed as La Petraia evolved and as their understanding of the land grew. Susan and Michael have also offered “Landscape Readings” (their unique version of a foraging class) through which you can gain in-depth understanding of not only the food, but how it impacts the farm’s eco-system. In addition to their other amazing activities, La Petraia offered wine tasting and olive oil exploration classes, as well as normal lunch and dinner tastings. Beyond these formal opportunities, guests were welcome and encouraged to harvest nuts and other produce on their own during their visits, when appropriate.

All these facts, history, and experiences describe what comprised the experience at La Petraia, but there is more. Michael and Susan describe with great eloquence the powerful natural forces in the land around their farm that have inspired them and that have guided their efforts at La Petraia. But I think that their status as 'outsiders' to Italian tradition (if not all of its obtuse mores) and their willingness to follow their own direction while also respecting the soul of the land and surroundings is the true key to the beauty that they have created here. By embracing the land and its possibilities and seeing beyond the custom and tradition, Susan and Michael created something much greater than the sum of its parts — they uncovered someplace magical that redefines what it means to visit an agriturismo.

Watch for Part II of this post coming very soon where I’ll describe a dinner I attended at La Petraia which completely captures the essence of that magical place.

I will be making more videos so tell me what you think!

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This will not be a step-by-step guide; rather it’s about how you approach travel. In short, it’s about how to do travel well. On the home page of Farm Table Italy, there is a post regarding my offer of travel planning services in which I describe my own philosophy of travel. Ironically, my framework started with some startup business planning with a good friend many years ago (h/t: Tim) It envisions travel as something loosely analogous to a three-act theatrical play. The first act is planning (similar to the introduction of the characters and setting the scene); the second is travel itself (the main action of a play); finally, act three is a kind of memorialization (how the story ends and how the characters change.) It’s not a perfect analogy, but it works when you start to break it down.

Act I: Don’t Be Afraid.

Planning is the timing and logistics of your travel, but also about something just as important: anticipation. Guide books, meeting with your fellow travelers, reading Substack (!), exploring online -- all these activities will serve to heighten the excitement for your upcoming trip. This leads me into one of my first lessons for doing travel right: don’t be afraid.

Depending on how much you have traveled or if it’s your first trip abroad or to Italy, you may feel nervous or apprehensive. That’s natural and it results in a natural side effect: caution. Confronted with many choices and unknowns, people will have a natural tendency toward the “safe route” when that fear of failure becomes too strong. That can take the form of choosing to stay at an American branded hotel in an busy location as opposed to a smaller, well-placed Italian B&B. Or eating at a restaurant with English menus and great Google reviews (from Americans) as opposed to a smaller trattoria full of locals speaking Italian. But is taking the safe option really why you are taking this trip?

It is easy to book a hotel or hand your experience over to a tour company because it feels like risk mitigation. But you should realize that avoiding any risk means that you’ve also left a lot of discovery and experience on the table. I would suggest that you think about and plan your trip as if it has already happened. What do you want to have seen or experienced on your visit? Be intentional. As with life in general, people rarely look back and celebrate having taken the safest route. Travel is an adventure and a journey into the unknown … embrace it. If you plan well & seek out good advice, I believe you will find the results will be worth it.

Booking from most large tour companies will leave you sitting on a bus looking out a window or following a tour guide holding an umbrella through throngs of other tourists. Instead, think about finding a small hotel in a neighborhood and get to meet the people you came so far to see; seek out local guides and walking tours to see things up close. As opposed to staying in a hotel near the Trevi Fountain in Rome, explore AirBNBs or VRBOs in a Roman neighborhood away from the center where locals live and get a feel for the rhythms of the city that are impossible from a cloistered hotel or tour bus. Or better yet, add a stop in the countryside at an agriturismo (working farms with rooms to rent) and experience a different side of Italy.

Regardless of how you want your trip to be, try to use your Act I planning to learn as much as you can; take ownership of what you’d like to do and try to embrace the excitement and nervousness that you feel; the looking forward is rewarding in itself!

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Act II: Festina lente. (“Make haste, slowly.)

Your bags are packed and your flights are booked and the day has finally come. Act II is the journey itself; where all the planning comes to life. Maybe you have only been on a plane a handful of times or maybe you take flights twice a week for work. Either way, nothing is quite as exhilarating as beginning a journey to a destination that you have thought about and planned for months.

My advice is plan, prepare and then slow down and don’t worry. Your trip is never going to be perfect. If you let go of that expectation, you paradoxically free yourself to have a better experience. Perfect travel is impossible; expect the unexpected. You may make a mistake in your planning and not realize that the museum you want to see is closed on the day you want to go. Unexpected events can intervene in Italy. Things will not always go according to plan. Bad weather, airline or train delays, and other unforeseen gremlins will crop up. But try to remember that your trip is greater than the sum of its parts. If you have done your homework and planned well, you can adjust to pretty much anything that occurs. Slow down & relax. The thing that didn’t go the way you hoped might well result in an opportunity you would have never seen coming ... and could never have expected. So roll with it make adjustments when you need to. That flexibility is a life-skill; not just a travel-skill.

Finally, don’t expect everything that you take for granted in daily life in the U.S. to be the same in Italy. Day-to-day life in any Western European country is perfectly manageable for Americans, but there are quirks. For example, rather than hailing a cab in the street, you may need to find a taxi stand where the cabs congregate. There are perfectly good reasons why it’s different so don’t be surprised. If you expect differences and ask for advice, it will all work out well. Travel is not about bringing America to the world; it’s about you experiencing a culture and way of life that is different and growing from it.

“Even though it’s al dente, it’s still good”

My family and I were staying in a small, hilltop village in central Tuscany very near a cluster of Chianti wineries. The town had a single, small restaurant that was family owned and offered excellent local cuisine. Because we were staying in the village for an extended period of time, we visited more than a few times. The waiters got know us and loved that my boys ordered using polite Italian language ordering etiquette. One day, an American family came in while we were there. They weren’t the stereotypically rude Americans; but they did seem to expect (rather loudly) that the restaurant would have the internationalized Italian food they wanted. After some back and forth over the menu -- written in Italian -- they settled on a few simple pasta dishes. After the food was served, the waiter checked in ... and the mother in the group pronounced her verdict on the pasta stating awkwardly,“even though it’s al dente, it’s’ still good.” To this day, my family and I share a smile and maybe an eye-roll at that memory. Of course it’s good; while Italians may not have invented pasta, few would argue that they have perfected it in all it forms. Beyond that, I like to think that she learned that maybe her expectations -- more so than the pasta -- were a bit “al dente”.

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Act III: Memorialization.

Act III is capturing the memories of your trip. Before you starting planning your Instagram posts, I would urge you to think more broadly. These are the moments captured in your mind, in your camera, in a notebook that you take with you to capture your thoughts and feelings during the travel. Memories fade and writing your daily events and experiences reminds you of the things that can get lost during your trip. Travel is usually so busy, it’s easy to forget these small details. Take quick notes so as not to lose the memory. Do it when you sit down for a coffee or just to take a break. Capture the highlights and fill in the details later at the end of the day or when jet lag keeps you up at night. Organize the photos and videos you took during the day when you have a moment.

Speaking of photos, Italy is a beautiful country so you will want to take pictures to remember your trip. I’m an amateur photographer myself and I know how satisfying it can be to capture a moment or a vista. But recognize a few things: you’re not the first person take a selfie at the Trevi Fountain. (Sadly, social media has become a scourge at the many popular tourist destinations and an annoyance to locals and travelers alike.) Look for the photo that hasn’t been repeated a million times on Instagram. I’m sorry, but the world does not need another TikTok video of the Pantheon and certainly not preening in front of St. Peter’s Basilica. So maybe just keep those photos and videos for yourself or just share with your family.

Finally, here is some quick takeaway advice that applies to Italy but could as easily apply to anywhere in the world:

Let Italy be Italy.
I had a boss who used to say “Take the world as you find it, not as you would have it be.” Don’t expect it to be America with better food and deeper history. While that’s true, try to embrace its unique way of life and customs.

Travel like a local.
As much as you can, try to experience Italy like a local. If you see a restaurant with an English menu full of Americans, keep walking. Find one where you see mainly locals and you’ll eat better and probably learn some Italian. Especially in smaller cities and in villages, take a late afternoon walk (passeggiata) around 5pm. Notice the grandmothers and daughters and granddaughters walking together and wonder why that doesn’t happen in the U.S.

Speak some Italian.
Try to learn a little Italian before you travel but certainly don’t feel like you need to be fluent. Italians can spot that you’re American from a mile off and, unless you speak pretty well, they usually won’t reply in a staccato quick response. But I have always found that Italians generally love when visitors make an effort to say a few words in their language. It’s taken as a form of respect that you try and is always appreciated.

You’ll most likely return.
When folks approach me about a one-time trip to Italy, I tell them that they’ll probably want to go back. Italy seems to be like that; it gets under your skin because they seem to practice a lifestyle that we Americans naturally appreciate. So assume you're going back and go a bit slower. You cannot squeeze a trip to Rome or Florence into 2 days anymore than you could visiting New York City or Washington. So slow down a bit and assume you’ll be returning; it’s a safe bet you will.

Please reach out if I can be helpful in your planning.

Periodically, I’m going to send you a digest of Notes written by me. Notes are posts that show up within the Substack app, but if you only subscribe FTI emails and do not use the Substack app, you may not see these. I hope you enjoy the summary and the additional words and images. Also, I urge you to check out the Substack writers mentioned within my Notes.

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— David.

Not surprisingly, many of these events take place during the late summer and into fall during the vendemmia (or harvest time.) But that’s not a strict rule; you can definitely find them throughout the year all across the country. I hope this list will encourage you to explore the region you’re visiting for sagre during your trips. They provide a rich, cultural, insight into Italian food, culture and life. And the food’s not bad either. ;-)

JANUARY

• Sagre delle Frittelle
  Frittelle are traditional Italian doughnuts that feature raisins, and orange and lemon zest. There are sagre focused on frittelle in many locations across Italy, but the one of the largest ones takes place in the village of San Donato in Collina just outside Florence and should be on your short-list if you’re in the area during the winter.

  Location: San Donato in Collina (TU)

  Location: The event starts in mid-January and runs every weekend through mid-March.

FEBRUARY

• Nero Norcia

  For Italian foodies, Norcia in the province of Umbria means cured meats; in particular, its famous prosciutto ham. But another gem exists in the Umbrian hills: black truffles. This feste both celebrates these ingredients and provides a unique view into the culinary life in the mountains of Umbria. There are tastings, conferences, and producer demonstrations focused on the black truffles but cold cuts, cheeses, wines and many other typical regional products are also featured.

  Location: Norcia (UM)

  Timing: Weekends beginning February 21 and continuing through March 2nd.

  

MARCH

• Festa Regionale Del Vino Friulano

  This noteworthy wine festival takes place each year for two weeks in March since 1950 in the town of Bertiolo in the region of Friuli-Venezia Giulia. (This area is north of Venice near the border with Slovenia and Austria.) Friuli produces wonderful Italian wines and the sagre features kiosks for wine tasting and sample local agricultural food products along the streets of the town. In 1984, a wine competition was introduced and it has expanded to include all DOC Friulian wines. The event attracts all sorts of vendors markets and includes car shows, concerts, and even rides for children.

  Location: Bertiolo (VE)

  Timing: Weekends in the middle of March.

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APRIL

• Mostra Interprovinciale Dell’Asparago Bianco di Cimadolmo IGP
  For Italian foodies, springtime is synonymous with the annual harvest of white asparagus (asparagi bianchi). Sagre focused on asparagus take place all over the country thanks to Italians hyper-regionality and unshakable belief that their local version of any ingredient or dish is always the best one. But the festival in the town of Cimadolmo on the banks of the Piave River in Veneto is worthy of special attention. The flood plains of the Piave provide an ideal, nutrient-rich environment for the growing of asparagus. If you can’t make it to the event, be sure to try asparagi bianchi during the springtime when it’s ubiquitous in restaurants all around the country.

  Location: Cimadolmo (VE)

  Timing: The event runs from early to mid-April.

  Thanks for reading Farm Table Italy! This post is public so feel free to share it.

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SEPTEMBER

• Sagra Dell’Anguilla
  Comacchio, aside from being a lovely town full of Venice-style canals on the Adriatic coastline of the northern province of Emilia-Romagna, is home to a food with which many Americans might be unfamiliar … or even squeamish. Anguilla means eel and while you may not want to hold them in your hands, you will definitely want to eat them. Specialities include grilled eel and polenta (whose flavor is so wonderful that it’s considered an insult to ask for lemon juice to drizzle) and Emilia-Romagna style Eel Risotto. In addition to the local dishes that feature anguilla, there are opportunities to explore the Po Delta Park by boat, bike, minibus and on foot. You can discover the districts, canals, and bridges of Comacchio as well.

  Location: Comacchio (ER)

  Timing: Sagra dell’Anguilla runs from late September to mid-October.

• I Primi d’Italia
  I Primi d’Italia focuses on an Italian staple that everyone can get behind: pasta. A bit more commercial and larger in scale than many of the other sagre listed here, this is a gastronomic event. It bring chefs, producers, experts, critics and journalists together in a celebration of pasta. It takes over Foligno — a town in central Umbria not far from Perugia or Assisi — with tasting points, gala dinners and shows. Pasta, tortelli (stuffed pasta famous in central Italy) and rice are the stars in this pastafest. Finally, themed events and markets attract groups of gourmet enthusiasts as well as food professionals and even celebrities.

  Location: Foligno (UM)

  Timing: End of September and into the first days of October.

  ---

• Sagra dei Funghi di Cusano Mutri
  I’m thrilled to recommend a sagre in one of my favorite Italian regions - Campania. The village of Cusano Mutri is located in the hills about 75km northeast of Naples in the Benevento province. It’s a town full of medieval charm with well-preserved buildings and squares that will transport you back in time. The focus of the sagre are the local porcini mushrooms but expect to smell roasted chesnuts and other locally harvested ingredients. Also look for dishes featuring Campania’s famous Caciocavallo cheese. (Imagine porcini on toasted Italian bread drizzled with melted Caciocavallo and you have the idea.) If you want to explore more in the area, consider a visit to nearby Sepino where exist the ruins of an ancient Roman town dating to 300 B.C.

  Location: Cusano Mutri, CM

  Timing: Weekends from mid-September to mid-October annually.

  ---

• Sagra del Cinghiale

  About ten years ago, I was driving down the winding switchback road in Tuscany from Lamole, where my family and I were staying, a brown beast flashed up a very steep banking and bolted across the road. Powerful, with a thick neck and large tusks, it looked like it weighed at least 200 or 300 lbs. We had crossed paths, albeit briefly, with a Tuscan cinghiale (or wild boar.) Beyond its size, our reaction was amazement that something that big could move that quickly. It’s not surprising that it didn’t see us; wild boar have extremely small eyes and poor eyesight but a long, straight, hard snout and an acute sense of smell. That anatomy means it easily digs up nuts and mushrooms from the rich soil that gives it a flavorful meat. Cinghiale has long been a popular dish in central Italy where they are plentiful. Normally that takes the form of a ragu (or sauce) served with wide pasta like pappardelle. But also can be found a la cacciatore or even cured as a cold cut. The festival takes place in large park near the medieval village of Capalbio in the Maremma region of western Tuscany.

  Location: Capalbio (TU)

  Timing: Visit during the second week of September.

  

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• Fiera Internazionale del Tartufo Bianco d'Alba
  To my enduring shame, I have never been this sagre, but rest assured I will remedy this heinous gap in my foodie resume. An international celebration of the white truffles of the Alba region that takes place in historic Alba. There are markets where you can buy truffles directly from the Trifulao (truffle hunters) and other authorized merchants. There are more cultural, food, and musical events than I can list here. Walk, run, crawl, or drag yourself to this one.

  Location: Alba, PE

  Timing: Early-to-mid October until the first week of December.

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A couple of disclaimers:
(1) Make sure to check dates carefully for precise activities and timing. Many of the websites you will find are not written in English. Feel free to reach out to me if you want some help with translation.

(2) This list is far from exhaustive! But from my research, these events demonstrate a good cross-section of the type and variety of food festivals that can be found outside the Italian cities.

Buon appetito tutti!

Beyond their alleged aphrodisiacal qualities, the hot pepper has a mysterious hold on the South, and the regions of Calabria and Basilicata in particular. It is the mantelpiece of their mercurial cultural identity and a sort of hood ornament on the gastronomic hot rod that is Southern cuisine.

Yet, the pepper was not born here. Coming from the Americas, the Antilles, to be precise, the 'Capsicum annuum' of the Solanaceae family arrived in Europe in the late sixteenth century, thanks to the adventures of Christopher Columbus. It is said that his fleet’s doctor, Chanca, from Seville, stowed a bundle of sweet and spicy peppers in the hull of his ship and only later discovered their medical, chemical, as well as culinary virtues.

But it is safe to say -- well, in Italy at least, -- that the peperoni have found their ideal stomping grounds in the most distal extremity of Europe’s boot.

In Basilicata, in the territory of Senise, the sweet bell pepper is turned into peperone crusco – that is, crisp. Planted in February and March, it is harvested in early August when the berries are colored with an intense purple. Hanging from windows and balconies, and woven together with needle and thread from the stalk, the peppers become long necklaces that, with that bright red, seem almost there to beautify the houses, rather than to dry in the sun.

The Senise pepper, recognizable by its smaller size and sharp hook, is also called 'zafaran', as the color of the powdered dried peppers is reminiscent of saffron. It is also said that here, as in other areas of the south, the pepper and chili have taken the place of saffron (a nobler spice, but much more expensive) as it not only adds flavor but also color.

The microclimate of Senise, in the Valley of the Sinni, allowed for such a high level of specialization of the pepper that it obtained an IGT denomination in 1996. Artisanal farms produce the prized peppers in all the surrounding areas: from Chiaromonte in Valsinni, to Francavilla in Tursi, all the way to Sant'Arcangelo in Val d'Agri.

But more broadly, the hot pepper – peperoni, pepperoncini, call them what you want – are ubiquitous throughout the South. At the Locanda del Poeta agriturismo, in the province of Cosenza, in Calabria, they use it to spice up their stews and ragus of goat and black Calabrese pig, both raised on the agriturismo’s property.

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If you don’t feel like wallowing with the local pigs, you can join in a regular fishing derby in their nearby lake (featuring Brown trout and European trout) or head out on a mushroom forays in the adjoining forests for porcini, Caesar’s mushrooms or pinelles. Or just unwind with a leisurely game of bocce and a glass of the local Greco Nero while smelling the aromas of the spicy lamb stew on the stove.

SPICY LAMB STEW RECIPE

Ingredients:
1 lb goat meat
½ cup of white vinegar
¼ cup virgin olive oil
2 cloves of garlic
a handful of local red hot peppers, minced
1 small can of tomato paste
4 medium tomatoes, diced
salt

Dice the goat meat and let it marinate in the vinegar and some water for a few hours. In a heavy stew pot, add the meat, oil, garlic, diced tomato, peppers, a few spoons of the tomato paste and salt. Pour in water so it covers everything.

Cook on low heat for a few hours, until meat becomes very soft.

Note from David:

Eagle-eyed readers will note that I did not write this post! I’ve known John Moretti for almost ten years. I connected with John and enlisted him to help me explore our shared passion for all things farm, table, and Italy. We traveled together across Italy from Tuscany to Sicily tracking down fantastic experiences … and had a more than a few of our own. If I’m lucky, I can get him to contribute to Farm Table Italy moving forward.

Here’s a more formal bio:

They say there are two things you never want to see made: laws and sausages. As a newspaper editor and freelance correspondent in Italy for more than a decade, John Moretti is still haunted by the former image but drawn to the latter like a moth to a flame. An enthusiastic collector of farm-to-table experiences, John has been midnight fishing off the coast of Liguria for the European flying squid, porcini hunting in the wilds of Abruzzo, and has helped clean the paddocks of local pig varieties in Tuscany, to name a few of the more memorable. He is the author of “Living Abroad in Italy” and more than a dozen guidebooks on regions throughout the country.

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About ten years ago, I had planned a family trip to Florence. I was coming from the West Coast and then meeting my brothers and sister in Italy; they were traveling separately from Boston. But fate, in the form of aircraft problems and a hastily cancelled flight, intervened. As a result, my family was unable to meet me in Italy scuttling the trip. To make the situation worse, I only learned this upon landing in Florence! I had booked an apartment through VRBO in the city for our trip. Our host was Claudia Morace. Upon learning what happened, I called Claudia and explained my predicament and that I would be going home early due to the unexpected travel problems. She could not have been more understanding and helpful; she reduced our fee and even booked me a driver to take me to Pisa for my return flight home. (Side note: If you haven’t driven at 75-80 miles per hour on a secondary road at 4:30am from Florence to Pisa, you will want to take your heart medication beforehand.)

A couple of years later, I was planning for a long-term visit to Italy with my wife and two young boys. We had recently gotten our Italian citizenship and wanted to spend an extended period in-country to more fully experience life there. I reached out to Claudia to see if she might know of any long-term accommodations near Florence. She immediately connected me with a friend of hers who had a perfect rental home near Panzano in Tuscany. Again, thanks to her kindness and willingness to reach out, we had an amazing experience. For three months, we felt what it was like to live like locals not merely tourists ... or as close as is possible for *stranieri* (foreigners!)

In addition to the apartments she owns and rents in Florence, Claudia hosts guests at her farm in central Tuscany between Florence and Siena. The Brits call this area “Chianti-shire” because it’s a popular spot for those who want to visit wineries in an area where the Sangiovese grapes and the resulting Chianti varietal is plentiful. Claudia’s farm produces award winning wines and olive oil from fruit grown on the farm. I have purchased oil — much more than I usually need, but I cannot resist — from her annual harvest. Her oil is unlike anything you will find available here in the U.S. even at premium or speciality stores. If you have never experienced fresh, first press olive oil, I urge you to order from Claudia. Olives are typically harvested in October and production time is from late October to November; she typically ships late in November. I can personally attest to the quality of the packing and the timely delivery. Please reach out to me if you’re interested in placing an order for oil or wine! Also, you can get information about visiting or staying at Claudia’s farm Casino di Sala in Panzano via this link: www.stayitalia.com/casino.html.

I will finish this note where we began: Claudia’s in-city Florence apartments. With the huge growth in Italian tourism in recent years, I always recommend that folks avoid the hotels and rentals that are closest to the popular tourist sights. The perceived convenience of being close to the sights will be quickly outweighed by the complete lack of anything close to a genuine experience. Claudia’s rentals are convenient to the city center but far enough away to enable you to feel like you’re part of the city — not part of the crowd. She has two distinct locations which you can rent separately or together if you have a larger group. I urge you to consider them when you’re planning your travel to Florence. The direct links are: www.vrbo.com/165586 & https://www.vrbo.com/92298.

To understand Spannocchia requires a basic understanding of the history of the mezzadria system from which it evolved and which has deep roots in medieval Italy. Several years ago, I met with Randall Stratton and spoke with him about the history of the property and his preservation work. Randall’s family has owned the estate since the 1920s; he provided me with a fascinating history of the property and of its unique status.

Mezzadria

In general, mezzadria was an Italian form of share-cropping prevalent in Italy beginning in the Middle Ages. Unlike other harsher forms of feudal relationships, mezzadria operated from a slightly more equal footing between the landowner (called the concedente) and the farmer (called the mezzadro.) The mezzadro would farm the land and deliver half of the produce to the concedente, who would provide the land, tools, and sometimes livestock. As such, it was a much more collaborative approach when compared to other other feudal ownership systems in Europe. The farmers were not as bound to the land and were more free to move about under the system.

The location of the Spannocchia estate is known to date back to 1225. Ambrogio Spannocchi was a Sienese banker of that time and is the first owner we can identify. He donated the land to the monastery of Santa Lucia in memory of this deceased mother ... and Spannocchia was born. It operated unchanged as an agricultural estate for the following 700 years. From 1918 to 1925, the estate was owned by a wood farmer and many trees were harvested. During that period, 40 families lived and farmed on the property. They grew grapes, olives, chestnuts, wheat, and other vegetables. In addition, they raised sheep and grew flax for linen.

Fatefully, in 1925, the Cinelli family bought the estate. Delfino Cinelli was born into a wealthy family of Florentine hat makers and worked in the family business until he was 40 years old. At this time, he began a successful career as a writer. Spannocchia served as an inspiration for his writing and he spent a great deal of time there until his death in 1942. The estate then passed to his children and the property was largely abandoned until the early 1990s. This is perhaps not surprising due to the devastating aftermath of World War II in Italy and the resulting urbanization movement which brought many Italians to the cities (and abandoning the countryside) in search of jobs. This is so notable because this was also a period when many of these traditional estates were being broken up and split into smaller and smaller estates and the traditional Italian farming systems were being lost. But Spannocchia was spared that fate due to the ownership of the Cinelli family.

In 1959, the Etruscan Foundation was founded by the Cinelli family to promote research and scholarly study of ancient Etruria, which includes modern Tuscany. Etruscan archeological sites on Spannocchia were discovered and excavated in the late 1950s and 1960s. In 1992, Francesca Cinelli, granddaughter of Delfino, and her husband Randall Stratton moved to Spannocchia with the goal of restoring the estate to its historic status. In addition, they sought out to combine food, tourism and educational activities on the farm.

In Part III, we will explore these activities which include the raising of the once near-extinct breed of pigs known as the Cinta Senese.

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Spannocchia is an 1100 acre organic farm nestled in the rolling hills west of the Tuscan city of Siena and approximately 80km south of Florence. Many of the private farms across Italy began their lives as huge medieval estates like Spannocchia, but have long since been broken into smaller and smaller parcels over time. Spannocchia is largely unchanged in scale from its past dating to the early Renaissance in central Italy. As a resort, it is not for the faint of heart nor those travelers looking for the kind of pampered “cinque stelle” (five star) experience that can be found in many places in Italy or across Europe. Indeed, it is more demanding of its visitors but the reward is a trip back in time … and a lesson in sustainability and comfortable simplicity.

Getting to the farm-estate involves an uphill drive on a classic Italian strada biancha. Literally translated, strada biancha means “white road”. But for most Americans, the reference is simply to a dirt road; the sort which criss-cross the Italian countryside all around Tuscany. On the secondary highway heading west out of Siena, a nondescript turn off winds up into the mountains for the 15 minute drive to Spannocchia. Turning the final corner, you are greeted by its gated entrance and the long stone wall that leads up into the main farm house on the estate. It is a sight that looks like it could come from the set of “Game Of Thrones” or an etching from a book on medieval history.

Let’s see the drive up …

The main farm house includes 13 guest rooms offering bed-and-breakfast accommodations. In addition, there are six farm house rentals each with meal preparation facilities and equipment. Among its visitors taking advantage of these rooms and houses are writers and painters and others who seek the communal relationship with the land that Spannocchia offers. This is not an inn or hotel near a village or town; it’s secluded and remote, full of rustic charm and authenticity.

In the next entry on Spannocchia, we will delve into its history and the ethos that drives the activities there. Finally, we will explore the farm activities and animals raised on the farm; in particular, the breed of Cinta Senese pigs brought back from near extinction who call Spannochia home.

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The town of Molvena, approximately 90km east of Venice, sits on some of Europe’s most fertile soil. The Po River runs between the Alps to the north and the Apennines to the south, slowly and slightly downhill toward the Adriatic. It irrigates the majority of the land along its banks, populated by vegetable farms that yield, among other things, the region’s famous rice and white asparagus. (For those who travel to Italy during the springtime, you will likely be familiar with the ubiquitous asparagi bianchi.)

As you climb into the prealpi venete — the foothills that mark the end of the Po River plains and that lead into the Alps — the scenery begins to change. The vegetable farms that begin in Emilia-Romagna become cherry orchards and vineyards that benefit from the cooler morning air as the elevation increases. In the fall, these fields will also grow radicchio, the red chicory lettuce known by the ancient Romans and used by modern-day Latino-Veneti peoples to mattress good cuts of meat. But today, on an early-summer evening, the cherry is the focus. Specifically, those varieties falling within the Marostica designation.

The cherry has a spellbinding hold on the people of this area and plays a central role in its agricultural history. Primarily grown in the valley between the Arista and Brenta rivers, the Marostica’s ties to the region date back 600 years. The nearby town of the same name hosts an annual festival celebrating the variety every June. Today, the Marostica cherry is protected by IGP certification, and competes with the Vignola, from nearby Modena in Emilia-Romagna) for bragging rights.

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At the cooking school I attended at Agriturismo Al Pozzetto, Florindo and local Chef Amedeo Sandri divide the attendees into teams. They point around the room, dictating cooking assignments. The printed menus on the table are head-scratching. Nothing here about pies here. They’re talking about gnocchi? Sandwiches? And tripe? Scouring the ingredients around the 80-year-old chestnut table, we’re presented with flour, baking powder, cinnamon, cloves, eggs, vinegar, and is that saffron? Really? It seems Al Pozzetto’s own olive oil will play a role, and there, in a white ceramic bowl spilling over with Venetian irony, a pile of fruit: the blood-red Marostica cherries.

Our team was saddled with perhaps the most technically demanding recipe: the gnocchi di ricotta con crema di latte allo zafferano (gnocchi made from ricotta with saffron cream) and ciliegie all’aceto balsamico (cherries with balsamic vinegar). Traditional gnocchi are made with potatoes and eggs; but these substitute ricotta and Parmesan cheese and are much lighter ... and more fragile. Either way, gnocchi are a delicate dance. Consistency is everything, and if the timing or technique is off, the dumplings become little boulders. Or worse, mushy, formless blobs.

To begin, we stir fresh ricotta and flour together in a metal bowl, along with egg whites and Parmesan. Next, softened butter, cornstarch, and fresh cream. The mild ricotta and cream will act as a base against which the next ingredient — 300g of ciliegie denocciolata (pitted cherries) — will be able to shine. With a knife, we pit the cherries then chop them, then mix them by hand into the dough. The resulting paste is soft and sticky; held together by the eggs, Parmesan and cornstarch. The gnocchi are then plunged them into a huge vat of boiling water. Once they rise to the surface, we place them on a baking sheet.

Meanwhile, Florindo has disappeared and returned with another bowl of cherries picked from a grove of trees that are literally right beside the home, decades old, approximately 12 -15 feet tall. Three-quarters of the size of those found in a typical North American grocery store and loaded with character, they are almost the color of blackberries. Eaten raw, the flavor is complex and varied; sweet, for sure, but not overly so. Florindo doesn’t pick them by hand but rather uses pruning shears, just as you’d use in a vineyard. He hurries back to the kitchen where he quickly purées them in a blender, revealing both their delightful flavor as well as their deep purple color.

Back when we were rolling out the dough, Chef Amedeo had begun work on a simple cream-based sauce infused with saffron (zafferano) and balsamic vinegar (aceto balsamico), which he now pours onto the gnocchi. Florindo arrives with puréed cherry compote, and drizzles that, too, across the little “knots” before sliding the sheet into a large, well-used, steel oven for a quick, 15-minute bake. The final dish is light, sweet and richly flavored. The ricotta offers a clean palette against which the cherries splash their flavor, color, and texture. The saffron and balsamic vinegar sauce add richness and compliment the sweetness of the cherries.

While we were preparing gnocchi, the other guests busied themselves with a variety of other dishes that will feature the Marostica, including the most polarizing ingredient: tripe (or trippa in Italian.) Chef Amedeo sautéed the tripe with cherries and white wine slowly for what seemed like 30 - 40 minutes; the smell was intoxicating. Cooked correctly, tripe is not strong or gamey at all. In Italy, they use more than just the honeycomb-textured variety (called reticulum tripe) that we are accustomed to seeing in North America. Rather, all of the cow’s three stomachs are used depending on the meal. The so-called “first stomach” (called rumen tripe) is flat and smooth and that is the variety being sautéed by Chef Amedeo.

Choreographed by Florindo, the dishes are ready in the correct sequence. As we dip into the gnocchi, Chef Amedeo offers his thoughts on what this place is all about. He reflects on cooking as an act of love – both for our fellow human beings and for the land around us. We expand on long culinary traditions handed down through the generations, he says, and most importantly, we continue the tradition of nourishing one another. “Cooking for each other,” he says, “we learn about ourselves.”

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The Amalfi Coast, south of Naples in the Campania region, is popular among visitors to Italy. Glamorous hotels, shops and restaurants dot the rugged, natural coastline whose control has been contested traded among Romans, Italians, Spanish, Arabs, Saracens, Greeks, and North Africans since ancient times. But if you venture away from the coastal towns and and up into the mountains, there exists a view of Italian life (and food) that is rarely seen anymore.

Agriturismo Serafina, located in the town of Furore (pop. 800), is a working farm literally hanging to the side of an fjord 1000 feet above the Mediterranean. Standing on the veranda at Serafina looking down toward the sea and noticing the ruin of a Saracen fort that sits on an outcropping, it is difficult not to imagine that this view has been untouched for centuries. Looking across the huge ravine, and indeed across these mountains up and down the coast, you will also notice many abandoned or converted farms. Their owners have made the economic determination that it is simply too difficult to continue to farm this land. Serafina owner Domenico Fusco along with his wife, Giuseppina, and their two daughters continue to work this land and offer their guests a culinary reminder of the splendor and simplicity of the region’s food at its finest.

The farm itself is a miracle of ingenuity; the steep hills require terrace farming techniques that maximize the space but make the work on the farm much more difficult. Serafina produces a bewildering amount of vegetables and fruit from tomatoes and grapes to eggplant, lemons and oranges to zucchini. The highest terrace level even has a stable built into the rocky mountain itself that houses fowl, goats, and cattle. When the vegetables and fruit are in season, guests can always assist in harvesting and meal preparation. The Fuscos have devised a conveyor belt system to move vegetables up and down the terrace levels!

A favorite activity at Serafina is harvesting cherry tomatoes for use in bruschetta and then hanging them on a twine rope to be preserved in the farm cantina. The lemons grown in the Amalfi region are famous for their size and flavor and those grown at Serafina are no exception. (If they are in season, be sure to try the fried zucchini flowers stuffed with home made ricotta.) The Fuscos are justifiably and inspiringly proud of their agriturismo and treat their guests to a rustic and genuine experiences.

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NEARBY SIGHTS

Fiorde de Furore: If you’re feeling adventurous, there’s a beach that you can hike to that is unlike those found in the typical Amalfi coast town. In Furore, at the bottom of a long, steep trail and nestled in a rocky fjord is a gem of a beach open to the public and often free of the crowds. Buses running along the coast road stop to pick up and let off intrepid souls who hike down to the rocky beach. There’s even a small restaurant/bar tucked into the far end of the fiord!

Positano: While certainly a magnet for tourists — ferries run them in from Capri and Sorrento daily — Positano maintains its charm despite it all. Wander away from the crowds and shops to discover her inner beauty.

Il Sentiero degli Dei (Path of the Gods): The Sentiero degli Dei starts near the village of Bomerano and ends in Nocelle traversing approximately 8km and taking 2-3 hours to complete. But you are rewarded with breaktaking views of the Amalfi coastline.