B&B Panfilo Farmhouse
Welcome to Abruzzo
The region of Abruzzo is unknown to many travelers to Italy, Americans in particular. Slightly remote and without the immediate name appeal of Italy’s larger regions and cities, Abruzzo is often overlooked. For years, friends of mine who have lived in Italy and many of the locals whom I have met have urged me to visit. Abruzzo is pure geographical and cultural diversity, stretching from dramatic mountain ranges in the west to beaches on the Adriatic Sea on the east. Last October, I followed through and visited Abruzzo and chose Panfilo Farmhouse as my first experience there. Centrally located, it was a perfect introduction to the region and provided another perspective on the experiential travel you can find if you venture into more remote Italy.
The Farmhouse
Panfilo is a picturesque family-run farmhouse nestled in the rolling hills of the town of Cellino Attanasio in the province of Teramo. More bed-and-breakfast than working agriturismo, Panfilo is a hybrid, though the distinctions are not terribly important. The farmhouse has recently been remodeled and includes elegantly furnished rooms and suites across two buildings; we rented three en-suite guest rooms all located on a single floor in the main farmhouse, and it felt like we had the place to ourselves. The other buildings offer an even more private experience with multi-room suites with cooking options. All visitors have access to an infinity pool, a hot tub under the stars, and a fire pit and barbecue area.
Panfilo owners Annamaria and her husband Lino are lovely and accommodating people who are available when you need them for local recommendations and anything you might need to make your stay more comfortable. Neither speak fluent English, but Annamaria is quick to grab her phone and use Google Translate to overcome any language obstacles. (As always, I urge you try to speak a little Italian and everything will be fine. You’re in their country after all; and Italian is not difficult if you know even some Spanish or other Romance language.) Annamaria, Lino and their staff are all charming and make you feel instantly welcomed. No request is too small. You will also be hosted by their adorable farm dog, Armandino, who is always eager to visit.
Location
Rugged and remote yet still charming and accessible, Panfilo provides a jumping off point for you to experience the charms of Abruzzo. Positioned about 30–40 minutes from nearby Adriatic beaches and within easy reach of medieval hill towns, national parks, and vineyards, it’s ideal for travelers seeking a relaxing base for exploring Abruzzo’s natural beauty, culture, and cuisine. Panfilo is located in a picturesque valley surrounded by rolling hills that stretch to the horizon. Put on some hiking shoes and climb up those hills for views of both the Adriatic 17km to the east as well as the distant Gran Sasso d’Italia mountains to the west.
Food
For me, the star of the staying at Panfilo — even with all its natural beauty and lovely accommodations — was the fresh hand-made breakfasts created every morning by Annamaria and her staff. I call them “staff” but I’m sure they are family or friends because they chat and laugh like schoolgirls as they work their magic. Each day brings endless portions made from farm-fresh & locally-sourced produce, cheeses, breads, jams, and seasonal specialties. In particular, the homemade yogurt was a joy. I found myself eagerly waiting for Annamaria and her crew to open the doors each day — promptly at 8am! The light-splashed, airy views from the restored barn provide wonderful views across the valley as you sit down for an unforgettable meal.
The local restaurants carry forward the rustic feel of Abruzzese cuisine. This is not “sophisticated” Tuscany, but just as rewarding. At one local restaurant, we tried the Abruzzese speciality called arrostocini. They are typically made from mutton or lamb cut in chunks and pierced by a skewer then grilled simply over hot charcoal -- it’s important that the meat not touch the flame. Legend has it that the dish was originated by local shepherds who were being frugal to use meat from sheep that were no longer productive. We visited a local restaurant called Sott’a la Cerqua in the tiny nearby town of Manzitti. The arrostocini were served in a bespoke ceramic mug and the flavor of olive oil, rosemary, and roasted lamb was fantastic. I started to eat the meat by pulling it off the skewers — which seemed logical — only to be gently corrected by a local at the next table who told me that the correct way to eat them was straight off the skewer! I began to feel more like an Abruzzese shepherd almost immediately!
Region
Part of why I think visitors will love Panfilo is the chance to explore Abruzzo and find places like Sott’a la Cerqua. Whether you want to hike in the mountains, a day at the beach, or the chance to visit its historic villages, Abruzzo has something for you. We ended up driving to nearby Sulmona, famous both as the birthplace of Roman poet Ovid and as the capital of sugar-coated almonds known in Italy as confetti. (If you have ever been to a traditional Italian wedding, in the U.S. at least, small lace bags of confetti are on every plate.) Considered one of the most beautiful towns in Abruzzo, Sulmona is nestled adjacent to the dramatic Montagne del Morrone whose 6,800 ft peaks dominate the area.
In Sulmona, we walked into the Saturday open air market common across the villages and cities of Italy. These markets feature merchants offering everything from local food & specialties to clothing and housewares. These markets remain a vital part of local life in these towns. Visting them is a chance to experience a ritual in local Italian life and grab some amazing food. I found a local butcher selling head cheese — more commonly known as “coppa” in Italy — made from pork cheek and other head meats. I know … it’s hardly the “boar’s head” you’re used to, but try it and you will be surprised. Beyond Sulmona, other towns to visit nearby to Panfilo are the ancient Roman town of Atri, the fortress town of Civitella del Tronto, and the artistic ceramic center of Castelli.
Travel tip: I always find that the local governments in Italy produce excellent websites highlighting the tourism of their particular regions. Check out the site for Abruzzo.
For me, the hospitality of Annamaria, Lino and their staff at Farmhouse Panfilo were the best introduction to Abruzzo that I could have hoped for … and I cannot wait to return. Abruzzo’s abundance of food, culture, and nature are perfectly reflected at Panfilo. But more than that, my visit brought a genuine sense of tranquility and benessere (“well being”) that reminds us why it’s so good to avoid the beaten track. Particularly in Italy.
Send me a postcard … and buon viaggio!
David, your description of this visit was detailed and thorough, safe and comforting. The smiles and sincerity of these people however, was unforgettable. Thanks for the memories