In-Depth: Tenuta Spannocchia (Siena, TU)

Part I - Location

Some farm-to-table locations in the Italian countryside, be they agriturismos or farmstays or B&Bs, draw your mind immediately to farming or food production; some to the overwhelming beauty of the location; some to a timeless sense of history. Tenuta di Spannocchia combines all three into an enchanting experience that is uniquely Tuscan and rarely found in Italy anymore. Tenuta translates to “estate” in Italian and in that word lies a clue to the nature of the experience found at Spannocchia.

Spannocchia is an 1100 acre organic farm nestled in the rolling hills west of the Tuscan city of Siena and approximately 80km south of Florence. Many of the private farms across Italy began their lives as huge medieval estates like Spannocchia, but have long since been broken into smaller and smaller parcels over time. Spannocchia is largely unchanged in scale from its past dating to the early Renaissance in central Italy. As a resort, it is not for the faint of heart nor those travelers looking for the kind of pampered “cinque stelle” (five star) experience that can be found in many places in Italy or across Europe. Indeed, it is more demanding of its visitors but the reward is a trip back in time … and a lesson in sustainability and comfortable simplicity.

Tenuta Spannocchia (Siena TU)

Getting to the farm-estate involves an uphill drive on a classic Italian strada biancha. Literally translated, strada biancha means “white road”. But for most Americans, the reference is simply to a dirt road; the sort which criss-cross the Italian countryside all around Tuscany. On the secondary highway heading west out of Siena, a nondescript turn off winds up into the mountains for the 15 minute drive to Spannocchia. Turning the final corner, you are greeted by its gated entrance and the long stone wall that leads up into the main farm house on the estate. It is a sight that looks like it could come from the set of “Game Of Thrones” or an etching from a book on medieval history.

Let’s see the drive up …

The main farm house includes 13 guest rooms offering bed-and-breakfast accommodations. In addition, there are six farm house rentals each with meal preparation facilities and equipment. Among its visitors taking advantage of these rooms and houses are writers and painters and others who seek the communal relationship with the land that Spannocchia offers. This is not an inn or hotel near a village or town; it’s secluded and remote, full of rustic charm and authenticity.

Guest houses at Spannocchia

In the next entry on Spannocchia, we will delve into its history and the ethos that drives the activities there. Finally, we will explore the farm activities and animals raised on the farm; in particular, the breed of Cinta Senese pigs brought back from near extinction who call Spannochia home.