Review: Agriturismo Marciano (Siena, TU)
Agriturismo Marciano is one of the first agriturismos that I ever visited and it helped to spur my enthusiasm for this type of travel. It is a charming and authentic spot that shows that staying on a farm need not mean venturing too far into the countryside. Located right outside the historic Tuscan walled city of Siena, Agr. Marciano combines a rural and agrarian feel with the convenience of being walking-distance close (30-40 mins) to one of the region’s most historic and fascinating cities. Nadia and her husband Renato provide a serene experience full of character, food, and atmosphere. They produce wine and olive oil on their farm and utilize them all in Nadia's fatta in casa ("home made") cooking.
What is Agriturismo:
The first lesson of Italy is that, with its endless variations of regions, geography, dialects, and cuisine, the country does not easily lend itself to broad definitions. However, I will try to put a stake in the ground on this term.
Agriturismos are working farms that welcome guests and provide high-quality lodging in a rustic Italian setting while serving authentic, home-made local food. They may also offer experiences like cooking schools, wine or olive oil tastings, or even the opportunity to work on the land. They vary greatly in size; some can host dozens of guests in separate quarters. At the agriturismos that we will focus on at Farm Table Italy, you can expect to experience life on a working farm hat produces wine, olive oil, vegetables, cheese, or meats, etc. So, in addition to caring for their guests, your hosts are also proprietors of a separate farming business.
Interestingly, they are often subsidized by the local and regional governments and thus reflect a carefully considered public policy objective. Post-war Italy faced many economic challenges and many Italians began to move from the rural town to the larger cities in search of jobs and opportunity. There was a profound concern that Italy would lose connection with its long farming history and agrarian roots. Agriturismos were seen as a means to ensure that Italians who had uprooted and moved to the city could still experience life on a farm.As with many agriturismos located outside of the bigger cities, you will probably arrive by car. I should first say that if you're not familiar with Siena, a car with a GPS will definitely help. Siena itself is a bit removed from the primary roads and rail stops. Far from being in a remote location, Agr. Marciano is nestled into some lovely foothills right outside the Sienese walls. We had no real difficulty utilizing the address and the GPS in our rental car. A fenced courtyard welcomes guests to the working buildings of the farm, and the attached building that houses the guest rooms. In summer, this courtyard is a fantastic place to enjoy the Sienese sunshine and atmosphere. Walk through the main gate toward your car and you have a view towards the foothills and the northwestern side of Siena itself; turn south and take in the serene olive groves and vineyards.
The proprietor, Nadia and her family & staff create an authentic Italian experience for their guests. This is as much about the location as the agriturismo itself because being so close to Siena is a bonus. After arriving in early afternoon on a slightly chilly spring morning, we immediately made the 30 minute walk to Siena. I confess that Siena is one of my favorite places in all of Italy. Rich with history but a bit less trodden than the tourist hubs, Siena offers the savvy traveler many culinary, historic & shopping sights to explore. Being able to come home to Agr. Marciano makes your Sienese experience even more authentic. We took a inexpensive cab ride home; and if you’ve never taken a cab ride in Italy, try it! Winding over medieval cobblestone streets inches from buildings and dodging the occasional Vespa in an Italian taxi will leave you with an unforgettable memory!
One of the primary benefits of staying at an agriturismo is the ability to enjoy a locally-inspired, home cooked meal featuring ingredients from the farm and cooked in the local style. Nadia prepared a Tuscan feast on our last evening — the menu included risotto with porcini mushrooms, red peppers roasted in parchment, beef carpaccio, braised fennel, their own cheese and honey and served with their own wine. Dessert was a fabulous cioccolato torta (chocolate cake.) We enjoyed with meal with two other groups of travelers at the communal family dining table — one was a group of girls traveling together; the other a newlywed couple crossing Europe on their honeymoon. We got know one another and for two lovely hours, we ate, drank, talked, laughed and shared a meal together in a truly Italian fashion. Like a family.
Yes, Sienna is a wonderfully authentic Italian city in every regard. Someday I want to be there for the semi-annual city center horse race the Palio di Sienna.